This is Hearst Castle: opulent, obsessive, and almost obscene. It’s a must-see stop in San Simeon along California’s Pacific Coast Highway.
I’d wanted to visit Hearst Castle for ages, having first heard about it because of my appreciation for Orson Welles’ cinematic masterpiece Citizen Kane. For those in the dark, the film is based on the life of William Randolph Hearst, the early twentieth-century multi-hyphenate media mogul, with fingers in almost everything from newspapers to the movies. He was one of the richest men of his day. Hearst Castle was only one of his homes; it took almost thirty years to build and furnish (construction ended in 1947) for a sum of just under ten million dollars.
Hearst called it “La Cuenta Encantada”–the Enchanted Hill–and I can’t think of a more apt description for this hilltop oasis. Hearst Castle completely charmed me.
What charmed me wasn’t exactly the house itself. It’s a grand house with eclectic architectural styles inspired by locations all over the world and architectural detailing so ornate, the facade is almost vulgar in its extravagance.
It wasn’t the decor, although I really appreciated seeing the Spanish hand-carved wooden ceiling panels in the dining room and the antique Belgian tapestries hanging from the walls.
It wasn’t the lavish rose gardens or the citrus trees or the gold-tipped succulents scattered throughout the grounds.
It wasn’t the deep blue waters of the Greek-inspired Neptune pool either, although I found myself wishing I could have been a fly on the wall at some of Mr. Hearst’s infamously fabulous house parties.
I think what charmed me most were the views from this secluded Shangri-La: from the miles-long bus ride on a narrow road–sometimes one lane wide–winding its way to the top; the vista to the north overlooking acres and acres of Hearst property; the landscape to the west as seen from the balcony of Casa del Mar (House of the Sea), one of the estate’s cottages. I stayed there for the longest time on that balcony, looking past clumps of green trees and vast expanses of wheat-colored grass, down over San Simeon out to the Pacific Ocean. I stayed until the sun began to set, casting a golden glow over everything. I stayed until I had to be escorted off the grounds. Yeah, that happened.
Enchanted hill, indeed.
Check out the rest of my photos from Hearst Castle. What films have inspired you to travel?
Gray! you have to see Citizen Kane immediately. One of the greatest movies ever made. netflix has it. Loved Hearst Castle, amazing. How did they get all that stuff up that windy ass road?? Im into logistics so thats what I was thinking 🙂 Loved the gardens as well, I was on the last bus down the mountain too~
Suzanne—YES! I kept thinking that the whole time. I was so scared riding the bus up that road and I kept thinking we were going to go over the edge and roll down the hill!
I’m embarrassed to admit I didn’t know that about Citizen Kane (still haven’t seen the movie), but I can easily see why you were enchanted with this place. Wowza.
Great movie for a cold night, Gray. You simply must see it!
I’m a big fan of Citizen Kane. I think it’s one of the best English language movies ever made. It was a wonderful surprise to see this come up in my inbox this morning.
I wonder how much of Citizen Kane was biographical and how much of it was Orson Welles’ imagination. That much we may never know.
Love Citizen Kane too! Glad you liked the post. I’m happy to report that part about the zoo is TRUE! Driving towards Hearst Castle there were a couple zebras grazing. Turns out they are descendants of thezebras in Mr. Hearst’s zoo!