Hiking Half Dome has been on my life list for a while now, so I was thrilled to have an opportunity to finally visit Yosemite National Park this summer. Looking up at the famous mountain from the Curry Village parking lot in Yosemite Valley, I couldn’t believe how awe-inspiring it was to see it in person. The iconic granite peak that symbolizes the rugged beauty of the Sierra is a popular destination for thrill seekers and nature lovers alike and in my mind’s eye, I could see myself, at the end of a grueling and hard-fought hike, standing proud and unbowed at the mountain’s summit.
The reality of what happened, however, was quite different. My Half Dome experience was full of highs and lows that made it unforgettable nonetheless.
High: Driving to Yosemite National Park
It takes four delicious hours driving from Monterey through the farmlands and golden hills of central California to get to Yosemite. Just when you think the landscape can’t get any prettier, it does.
Low: Curry Village in the summer
There’s nothing wrong with staying in this small town of basic canvas tents in Yosemite Valley that a change of season couldn’t fix. My trip began at the start of summer vacation, so tons of people were staying at the park’s Curry Village lodgings. I was a bit disappointed by the lack of seclusion and serenity, so the next time I visit Yosemite (and there will be a next time), it will likely be in the fall or spring.
High: Little Yosemite Valley
The hike up Mist Trail with a 30-something pound backpack was incredibly strenuous but so worth it to camp for two nights along the Merced River in Little Yosemite Valley. Quiet and peaceful, I felt such amazing camaraderie with the handful of people sharing the site, as most had the same goal of climbing Half Dome.
Low: An accident on Half Dome
The day before we’d planned to depart for our trek, a hiker slipped and slid partway down the mountain while descending the cables. During the rescue attempt, a portion of the cables were detached and had to be reassembled before anyone else could be allowed on the mountain. We were thisclose to not being able to go up at all.
High: Making it part of the way up Half Dome
Fortunately, the cables were repaired in time for my group to go up Half Dome. My progress up the mountain was painfully slow, making it an unpleasant experience for the hikers behind me on the narrow trail. I wasn’t in the kind of shape I needed to be in and my fear of heights got the better of me, so I decided to turn around. I still got to take in some stunning views of the Yosemite Valley from almost a mile up, and I’m proud of myself for fighting through fatigue and fear and giving it my best shot. No regrets. Well, okay–maybe a just little.
Low: Jerks in the wild
While waiting for the rest of my crew to return from their attempt at the peak, a man who didn’t have the necessary permit for hiking Half Dome tried to sneak past the park rangers to get on the mountain. For almost ten minutes, he insulted and argued with the rangers to convince them to let him pass. Bad idea, bro, since some of the rangers carry a sidearm–I make it a rule never to mess with someone who’s packing heat.
High: Using Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides
Backcountry hiking isn’t something I do alone EVER, so I chose to go with a group through Southern Yosemite Mountain Guides, one of the premier adventure outfitters leading groups into Yosemite. I had the world’s most awesome guide in Drew Brodhead. Knowledgeable, patient, fearless, encouraging, and totally zen, Drew pushed me without ever making me feel uncomfortable or inadequate as I struggled through miles of rugged uphill trails. An incredibly talented backcountry chef, I think Drew cooked some of the best meals I had during my entire three-week trip. Good guy. Count yourself fortunate if he leads you into the woods.
Would I try to go up Half Dome again? Absolutely! I wasn’t ready for the challenge this summer but I hope I will be someday.
Is hiking Half Dome on your life list?
I’d love to hike Half Dome one day!
Also have a terrible fear of heights though, so I can’t say how much that will get in my way…
Physical condition is fine, wxcept for an annoying astma, but that I can handle:)
Hiking Half Dome isn’t something I would consider to be on my bucket list at the moment, simply because I know that like you I have a fear of heights that is not easy to overcome and I am definitely definitely out of shape. But that said if I can spare the time and money I would like to get back in the gym next year and start losing some weight. Losing weight, looking good and feeling confident in myself is a prerequisite before I go back out on the road traveling solo again. I know that I don’t need to do any of these things. I could just get up and go but there are enough challenges involved with solo travel without health and self image problems being added to them.