In early 2024, I traveled to Southern California to spend four days in San Diego to escape the chill of a northeastern winter and soak up some sun. While I’ve spent time in most of California’s other major cities, I’d never visited San Diego before, and was unsure what to expect.
Well-known for its beaches and surf culture, San Diego has a certain allure. But I had questions. Could I, a solo traveler who’s into history, architecture, nature, good food, and local culture, find ways to enjoy myself in this city that’s so well known for its sandy stretches and sunny days? I was about to find out.
My Favorite Moments from Four Days in San Diego
Arriving into San Diego via the Amtrak Surfliner
It was more difficult than I’d hoped to find a direct flight into San Diego at a desirable time, so I decided to do the next best thing: flying into LAX and then taking the famous Amtrak Pacific Surfliner train from Los Angeles into San Diego. While it meant a 15-hour travel day, from getting up early to get to the airport; the six-hour flight from Newark, and the subsequent 3-4 hour train ride with lots of transfers due to damage to the tracks, it was such a thrill to start my four days in San Diego with views of the Pacific Ocean to keep me company. There’s nothing like the romance of rail.
Sunny Weather
It’s true what they say: San Diego weather is pretty much always perfect. During my time in the city, I was completely unbothered by any suggestion that it might actually rain, so I was able to spend my days out and about throughout my trip. I didn’t even pack a raincoat.
An Afternoon at the Hotel del Coronado
If there’s a vibe that’s vibe-ier than taking a quick ferry ride to an island where you recline under a blue sky and swaying palm trees while the Pacific Ocean roars in the distance, I don’t know what it is. The Hotel del Coronado’s Windsor Lawn played host to my favorite few hours from my trip, where I lounged, read, and ate the most delicious lemon pound cake gelato, while the warm sun beat down on me. I wish I were there right now.
The Geisel Library at the University California San Diego
As a budding architecture enthusiast, I knew I had to visit the Geisel Library at UC San Diego. Named in honor of Audrey and Theodor Geisel—you know, the Dr. Seuss?—the opportunity to explore this behemoth of Brutalist design was so deeply satisfying. All of that reflective glass on a bluebird day created the illusion of a floating structure from afar, while closer inspection revealed the intricate processes that went into its construction. An architectural tour de force.
Robust Mass Transit
Call me doggedly practical if you must, but I love visiting cities with great public transit. One of the best decisions I made during my visit to San Diego was downloading the Pronto app and loading it with enough funds to cover my time in the area. For just a little more than $20, I rode the transit system’s trolleys and buses pretty much everywhere I wanted to go.
Breakfast Options in Gaslamp Quarter
The other good decision I made? Establishing my base of operations in the Gaslamp Quarter neighborhood. With ample dining options within walking distance, I took the opportunity to enjoy my favorite meal—breakfast—at three different establishments throughout my stay, all highly recommended: the Broken Yolk Café, Breakfast Republic, and Gaslamp Breakfast Company, where the crisp, light buttermilk cornmeal waffles are still haunting my memories in the very best way.
Plentiful Birds of Paradise
As a nature lover, I was absolutely delighted to spot birds of paradise everywhere, from the gardens of the historic Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá, to the concrete planters along streets in Little Italy. Spiky, sculptural flowers are my favorite, so I got a total thrill from seeing these colorful, birdlike blooms every day. I’m obsessed, and I don’t care who knows it.
Little Italy Mercato Farmers’ Market
The Little Italy Mercato Farmers’ Market was on my “must-dos” list, and I’m so glad it was. I wrote in my travel journal on arriving in Little Italy by trolley: “The Mercato was close by, and I walked its length: locally-roasted coffee, fruit, plants, flowers, breads, and the like were on offer. Juices too and a section nearer the other end were food trucks….Loving the relaxed vibe. I will always love visiting farmers’ markets wherever I go.” There’s something heady and seductive about melting into the throngs of activity as the local residents go about the business of living.
Balboa Park
Now I know you know I wasn’t going to San Diego and miss seeing Balboa Park! Having heard about the iconic park for years—while simultaneously not knowing very much about it—my curiosity was finally satiated. While the popular Botanical Building was being renovated and therefore inaccessible during my visit, I truly enjoyed exploring the façades of the ornate buildings, exploring works inside the San Diego Museum of Art, and then enjoying the delicate perfume of cherry blossoms, sparkling koi ponds, and fresh air at the Japanese Friendship Garden and Museum.
Marston House Museum and Gardens
A gorgeously preserved 1905 Arts and Crafts-style home designed from the same architectural DNA as many of Frank Lloyd Wright’s masterpieces, the Marston House Museum and Gardens is a beautiful introduction to Balboa Park. Located in the northwest corner of the massive park, the home of early San Diego notable George Marston and his family welcomes visitors to docent-led tours to uncover its rich history and beautiful details.
A Perfect Trip?
While I enjoyed my four days in San Diego, the trip wasn’t just highlights–there were a few low points, too. A visit to historic Old Town State Park, which would normally be the type of attraction I’d enjoy, simply didn’t capture my attention and learning more about the history of Mission Basilica San Diego de Alacalá and the dark legacy of the California Missions–left me feeling uneasy.
Could I have spent longer exploring even more of San Diego? Absolutely! However, these highlights show that there’s a lot to learn about, and enjoy, on a even a brief, four-day trip to “America’s Finest City.”
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